Capri Island
The Isle of Capri, located in the Bay of Naples just off the Sorrento headland, has been a desirable destination since the times of Ancient Rome. With its turquoise waters, high crags, majestic rock formations and hidden sea caves, the island is a natural playground.
While Capri was settled in the 8th century by Greek and Phoenician fishermen, it was the Roman Emperor Tiberias (who succeeded Emperor Caesar Augustus) that really put the island on the map around 30AD. He loved it so much that he had 12 palatial villas built for himself on the island, one of which was Villa Jovis, perched atop Monte Tiberio with spectacular views, now a popular place for tourists to visit.
Our introduction to Capri was on an all-day boat tour (www.bluestarpositano.it) from Positano. We meandered along the Amalfi Coastline towards Capri, while viewing the natural cave formations, cliffs rising from the sea and ancient forts built to defend against the Saracen pirates. Before long we had passed the tip of the Sorrento headland and were heading towards the “back” (south) side of the Island and the famous three “Faraglioni” (towering rock formations jutting out of the water).
One of the Faraglioni has a hole in the middle of it that boats can sail through, making it appear like an archway in the water. This has become an iconic symbol of Capri and our captain insisted that it is tradition for couples to kiss when under the arch.
We stopped in the calm waters on the south side and did some snorkeling. The water was incredibly clear and also very salty, which made it easy to float! As we continued clockwise around the Island towards Mount Solaro on the east end, the cliffs became even more impressive.
Grotta Azzurra
We had the opportunity to stop at the famous Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave), where Emperor Tiberius used to swim, however the line was about one hour to get into the cave, so unfortunately everyone on the boat opted out. However, if you are interested in doing it, it costs 14 Euro per person and, once it is your turn to go in, you will transfer into a small wooden boat and bend down below the sides of the boat in order to pass through the cave opening.
The cave itself is a natural cavern that is about 60 feet deep, 180 feet long and 75 feet wide and has a small opening that the light passes through to give the water a beautiful blue appearance. Your boat captain will probably sing a song while you float in the serenity of the cave for about 5 minutes before heading back out. The best time to visit the cave is on a sunny day between about noon and 2pm.
The boat docked at the Marina on the north side of the island where we disembarked. The crew had provided us with a map of the island and a recommended itinerary to follow in order to see all the highlights. The following is our itinerary which was easy to complete in the four hours that we had there.
Marina Grande
After docking at Marina Grande, we continued walking along the waterfront area, which is lined with retailers offering food, souvenirs, fashion and beach items. We headed west until we reached the taxi/ferry/bus ticket booth (opposite Ristorante Da Peppino and the public restrooms).
Here you can either purchase tickets to ride the bus up to Anacapri or hail one of the “taxis” which are cars that appear to have been modified into convertibles, with shade cloth as a roof. (We’ve done both, having visited the island twice.) Alternatively, you can rent a moped for the day!
Anacapri
The ride to Anacapri is up a steep, winding, cliffside road with spectacular views over the Marina so, if you don’t like heights. you will want to be on the driver’s side of the vehicle!
Upon arriving in Anacapri at the top of the mountain, we took a short walk to Piazza Vittoria and decided to grab lunch. There were numerous options to choose from. We chose to sit outside in the piazza and ordered some Caprese salad (because you have to do that when on the island it is named after!) with bufala mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes, which I still maintain is the best Caprese salad I’ve ever had anywhere (and I’ve had a lot!).
Mt Solaro
In Piazza Vittoria, you will find the chairlift station to ride up to the top of Mount Solaro which is a must-do when in Capri! It is a single person chairlift and does get quite high off the ground, so if you’re afraid of heights you may want to just cover your eyes (as the only other way to get up there is quite a serious hike!). If you’re not afraid of heights though, have your phone/camera strapped on and ready because the views back down the mountain and out over the ocean are absolutely incredible!
At the top of Mt Solaro are the most magnificent views. We could see all the way across the Bay of Naples to Mt. Vesuvius, as well as down towards the Amalfi Coast… and then there are the sheer cliffs down to the ocean.
Then, after you’ve walked all around and taken a million photos, you can grab an ice cream and drink from the café and relax on the terrace at the top of the world.
Eventually you will have to tear yourself away from this heavenly location and head back down to where the plebs live. Of course, you’ll get to enjoy the views all over again on the way down… but this time, facing the right way. 😉
Once back in the Piazza, you can make your way to the bus stop and wait for the next bus heading down to Capri.
Capri
The small town of Capri sits on the escarpment above Marina Grande and is a lovely village full of fashion boutiques, artisan studios, souvenir shops, and a variety of good food options. Despite being quaint, it does still have an air of luxury about it that is reminiscent of a bygone era.
From it’s elevated position, Capri township boasts a lovely view out over the Marina, although it doesn’t come close to the spectacular views from Mt Solaro if you’ve just come from there!
There are a few places to visit, if you want to do more than just grab a gelato and admire the view. For one, there is the Charterhouse of San Giacomo, a 14th Century monastery that was expanded and restored in the 17th Century, with stunning architecture, a museum, a library and some pretty great views of the sea. This is just a 5 minute walk from the main piazza in Capri.
There is also the Museo Ignazio Cerio which showcases fossils, minerals, and archeological finds, which is very close to the Capri piazza, and the Botanical Gardens of Augustus, which are a 6 minute walk from the piazza and offer sweeping views of the sea while meandering through the gardens.
Funicular
The Funicular (tram) runs up and down the hill between Marina Grande and Capri and only costs 2 Euro for a one way ticket and it’s definitely a fun, easy way to get back down to the Marina.
Sailing home
Once back in the Marina, we made our way back to the dock to meet our captain for the journey back to Positano. We took a slightly different route on the way back, continuing around the Island before we headed back to the mainland.
We stopped at a sea cave on the way back which is dubbed “the green grotto” and had the opportunity to swim into there on our own while the boat was anchored. Then we were offered home-made Limoncello and shortbread on our final leg back to Positano, which was delicious!
Final Word
Both times we have been to Capri it has been a highlight of our trip. While the boat ride is a big part of it, especially seeing the grottos and faraglioni, I think the grandiose nature of the Island, with the spectacular views from Mt Solaro, is the reason I would keep going back for more. But then, if you have read any of my other posts, you will probably know that I am a sucker for a great view. 😉