I had no idea that the Puglia (aka Apulia) region of Italy existed until I came across some pictures on Pinterest that completely reeled me in. After a few more clicks it became clear that I was going to be visiting this place on my next trip… and I have tell you that it did not disappoint!
The region of Puglia is on the heel of Italy’s boot shape. That is, the southeastern part of the country, which features a phenomenal coastline with cliffs and beaches, green rolling hills, vineyards, and spectacular white-washed villages. This part of Italy is less colorful in terms of the architecture… but certainly not in terms of the culture!
Bari
Bari is a fantastic metropolitan city. The historic part of the city (pedestrian only) partially surrounded by ancient walls, is very close to the harbor and features adorable winding cobblestone streets with fantastic buildings that open out into bustling piazzas filled with incredible restaurants and lively entertainment.
We stayed in a beautiful renovated apartment in the old city [link] which was right on the edge of the city walls. It was very quiet but right in the middle of the action!
Bari also has some phenomenal shopping! Just a few blocks from the old town was Via Sparano da Bari which was lined with all of your favorite stores. From Zara and H&M to Gucci and Prada, plus lots of smaller local fashion stores, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for somewhere along this classy, pedestrian-only street!
And after you’re done it’s only a few blocks to the waterfront where you can take in the harbor views.
Polignano A Mare
Polignano A Mare completely captured my imagination. I actually felt like I was in an Italian-themed Disneyland because it was just so perfect!
We arrived by car from Bari, after a short 40 minute drive, and parked at the train station (with the train being another way to get there). Our Airbnb host had arranged for a gentleman in a golfcart to pick us up from there an take us to meet her on the edge of the old town, just a short walk away from the apartment we were to stay in.
She showed us into our room and our breath was taken away when she opened the French doors to reveal a balcony on the edge of a cliff with the turquoise water below us. It was magic! We even got to have a delicious breakfast on the rooftop terrace of the house overlooking the ocean and had access to it any time of the day to relax in. (Link here)
The old town is primarily built from limestone, so it appears very white in the daylight and you will definitely need sunglasses! It has all the classic Italian village standards, such as churches, piazzas, cobblestone streets, archways, winding alleys, large wooden doors and even a bevvy of apparently stray cats (yes, that’s a thing in Italy!). But the clean, monochromatic feel of Polignano, perched on the edge off the cliffs, really was something else!
Walking out of the old town and heading south we arrived at a bridge connecting the two sides of the town (Ponte Borbonico). Standing on the bridge, we had an exceptional view of Polignano’s famous beach, sandwiched in between two cliffs. From there we could either cross to the other side of the town or go down the stairs to the beach. Of course, we did both!
There are lots of fantastic places to swim – whether the pebbly beach of Lama Monachile or the Lida Cala Paura a few miles north of town. The boat tour we went on to see the caves was great, but you definitely want to go when the sea is calm. It was very bumpy when we went which was much less enjoyable.
Aside from its spectacular beauty, the town is also famous for its cliff diving (think Red Bull challenge) and its unique Cave Restaurant (a little out of our league with it’s fixed price menu, but we did see it from the water on a boat tour!)
As you can imagine, the food is incredible – whether pizza/pasta, seafood, crepes, or the world-famous gelato. Our favorite restaurant was Osteria dei Mulini just inside the town walls through Porta Vecchia but you really can’t go wrong in Polignano A Mare!
Monopoli
We spent a few hours in Monopoli on our way to Locorotondo. I didn’t think it was nearly as pretty as Bari or Polignano, but it did have some nice spots, especially around the water, including a lovely little beach and harbor.
Locorotondo
From Monopoli we headed inland to the hilltop town of Locorotondo. Surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards, with views out to the coast, this was another lovely town, made in the traditional Puglian limestone and white architecture, which we wandered around and then enjoyed a delicious dinner.
This town also happens to be in the vicinity of the famous “Trulli” huts – small round buildings with cone shaped roofs that look like something out of a fairy tale. We found a lovely Trulli Airbnb in the countryside and spent the night there. (Link here)
Alberobello
It was a very short drive from the Airbnb to the famous little Trulli village of Alberobello, which fills up quickly with tourists every day. We arrived early to park and then walked up into the village. There are several cobblestone streets that are entirely lined with the ancient Trulli huts and it is quite an experience to walk around them, visit the shops and cafes and take it all in. Definitely worth spending a few hours here as there really is nothing else like it!
Summary
I would go back to Puglia in a heartbeat. I had high expectations from what I had read and it exceeded them all. It is fabulous for families, couples or singles, and is even more affordable than the other more well-known parts of Italy. Definitely a place to add to your bucket list!