Best Places to Visit in Puglia, Italy
I had no idea that the Puglia (aka Apulia) region of Italy existed until I came across some pictures on Pinterest that completely reeled me in. After a few more clicks it became clear that I was going to be visiting this place on my next trip… and I have tell you that it did not disappoint!
The region of Puglia is on the heel of Italy’s boot shape. That is, the southeastern part of the country, which features a phenomenal coastline with cliffs and beaches, green rolling hills, vineyards, and spectacular white-washed villages. This part of Italy is less colorful in terms of the architecture… but certainly not in terms of the culture!
Bari
Bari is a fantastic metropolitan city. The historic part of the city (pedestrian only) partially surrounded by ancient walls, is very close to the harbor and features adorable winding cobblestone streets with fantastic buildings that open out into bustling piazzas filled with incredible restaurants and lively entertainment.
We stayed in a beautiful renovated apartment in the old city [link] which was right on the edge of the city walls. It was very quiet but right in the middle of the action!
Bari also has some phenomenal shopping! Just a few blocks from the old town was Via Sparano da Bari which was lined with all of your favorite stores. From Zara and H&M to Gucci and Prada, plus lots of smaller local fashion stores, you’re sure to find what you’re looking for somewhere along this classy, pedestrian-only street!
And after you’re done it’s only a few blocks to the waterfront where you can take in the harbor views.
Polignano A Mare
Polignano A Mare completely captured my imagination. I actually felt like I was in an Italian-themed Disneyland because it was just so perfect!
We arrived by car from Bari, after a short 40 minute drive, and parked at the train station (with the train being another way to get there). Our Airbnb host had arranged for a gentleman in a golfcart to pick us up from there an take us to meet her on the edge of the old town, just a short walk away from the apartment we were to stay in.
She showed us into our room and our breath was taken away when she opened the French doors to reveal a balcony on the edge of a cliff with the turquoise water below us. It was magic! We even got to have a delicious breakfast on the rooftop terrace of the house overlooking the ocean and had access to it any time of the day to relax in. (Link here)
The old town is primarily built from limestone, so it appears very white in the daylight and you will definitely need sunglasses! It has all the classic Italian village standards, such as churches, piazzas, cobblestone streets, archways, winding alleys, large wooden doors and even a bevvy of apparently stray cats (yes, that’s a thing in Italy!). But the clean, monochromatic feel of Polignano, perched on the edge off the cliffs, really was something else!
Walking out of the old town and heading south we arrived at a bridge connecting the two sides of the town (Ponte Borbonico). Standing on the bridge, we had an exceptional view of Polignano’s famous beach, sandwiched in between two cliffs. From there we could either cross to the other side of the town or go down the stairs to the beach. Of course, we did both!
There are lots of fantastic places to swim – whether the pebbly beach of Lama Monachile or the Lida Cala Paura a few miles north of town. The boat tour we went on to see the caves was great, but you definitely want to go when the sea is calm. It was very bumpy when we went which was much less enjoyable.
Aside from its spectacular beauty, the town is also famous for its cliff diving (think Red Bull challenge) and its unique Cave Restaurant (a little out of our league with it’s fixed price menu, but we did see it from the water on a boat tour!)
As you can imagine, the food is incredible – whether pizza/pasta, seafood, crepes, or the world-famous gelato. Our favorite restaurant was Osteria dei Mulini just inside the town walls through Porta Vecchia but you really can’t go wrong in Polignano A Mare!
Monopoli
We spent a few hours in Monopoli on our way to Locorotondo. I didn’t think it was nearly as pretty as Bari or Polignano, but it did have some nice spots, especially around the water, including a lovely little beach and harbor.
Locorotondo
From Monopoli we headed inland to the hilltop town of Locorotondo. Surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards, with views out to the coast, this was another lovely town, made in the traditional Puglian limestone and white architecture, which we wandered around and then enjoyed a delicious dinner.
This town also happens to be in the vicinity of the famous “Trulli” huts – small round buildings with cone shaped roofs that look like something out of a fairy tale. We found a lovely Trulli Airbnb in the countryside and spent the night there. (Link here)
Alberobello
It was a very short drive from the Airbnb to the famous little Trulli village of Alberobello, which fills up quickly with tourists every day. We arrived early to park and then walked up into the village. There are several cobblestone streets that are entirely lined with the ancient Trulli huts and it is quite an experience to walk around them, visit the shops and cafes and take it all in. Definitely worth spending a few hours here as there really is nothing else like it!
Summary
I would go back to Puglia in a heartbeat. I had high expectations from what I had read and it exceeded them all. It is fabulous for families, couples or singles, and is even more affordable than the other more well-known parts of Italy. Definitely a place to add to your bucket list!
9 Days on Croatia's Dalmatian Coast
I recently traveled to Croatia and enjoyed this itinerary with my 22 year old daughter, but it would work for singles, couples and, with some minor modifications, even for families with younger children. Our flights went in and out of Dubrovnik but you would easily flip it around if you are flying in/out of Split. Accommodation recommendations can be found at the end of this itinerary.
Here is a brief overview of the itinerary before I give you the details:
Day 1 – Dubrovnik
Walk old town
Visit Buža Bar & Fort Lovrijenac
Possible Game of Thrones Tour
Day 2 – Dubrovnik
Walk the walls
Cable Car
Horse Riding or Buggy Sunset tour
Day 3 – Korcula
Ferry to Korcula
Buggy tour including Lumbarda beach swim
Day 4 – Korcula
Kayaking around Archipelago Islands
Day 5 – Split
Ferry to Split
Game of Thrones tour including Klis Fortress
Shopping
Day 6 – Split
Krka Falls National Park tour
Day 7 – Split
Zip lining and beach in Omiš
Fly back to Dubrovnik
Day 8 – Dubrovnik
Lokrum Island
Day 9 – Dubrovnik
Jet Ski or boat rental around Elaphiti Islands – visit Blue Cave, sandy beach, BOWA restaurant
For dinner ideas, check out the list of recommended restaurants at the end of this itinerary.
If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you can find tour options everywhere, or you can find places on your own during your few days in Dubrovnik, using this list:
Dubrovnik – Kings Landing
Fort Lovrijenac – Red Keep
Gradac Park (visible from Fort Lovrijenac on the West side)
West Harbor Pier – Blackwater Bay
Pile Harbor (beach in West Harbor) – Kings Landing Harbor
Pile Gate – Season 2 riot scene
Fort Bokar (on the walls) – Place of conversation between Tyrion & Lord Varys in Season 2
Jesuit Staircase to St Ignatius Church – Walk of Shame
Minčeta Tower (on the walls) – House of the Undying
Rector’s Palace
Ploče Gate – A few scenes including entrance to Red Keep after Cersei’s walk of shame
Lokrum Island – Qarth (and the real throne is also located here in the Monastery which you can sit on)
Arrival Day (Day 1) - Dubrovnik
After you have checked in and freshened up, take a stroll through the old town and find your way to the Buža Bar or Bard Mala Buža Bar (both accessed through doors in South Wall) for some swimming or cliff jumping, drinks, and a great view towards Lokrum Island. We also walked up to Fort Lovrijenac for a great view over the city (typically closes at 6:30pm but sometimes booked for weddings).
Day 2 - Dubrovnik
Start the day by walking the city walls (the earlier the better, to avoid the crowds and the heat). Enter either near the Pile Gate (our preference) or by the East Harbor (tickets required). On the Southern walls (ocean side) you will find a lovely café with tables overlooking the ocean – a great spot to sit for a while and take it all in!
We chose to exit the walls near the East Harbor rather than walking up the hill to the forts at the top of the town because it was so hot! We found a great sushi spot (Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota) for lunch with a beautiful view of a piazza and cathedral. Then, either walk or take an Uber to the Cable Car station (near the Buža gate at the top of the town). The cable car leaves every 15 mins and the top of the mountain has absolutely spectacular views. It has also has a restaurant at the top, with some of the most delicious food. You’ll want to spend about an hour up there, especially if you eat at the Panorama restaurant.
We then chose to do a sunset horse ride in Konavle (about 45 mins from Dubrovnik) and were picked up from the Cable Car station at 4:30pm for that. The same place also offers ATV/Buggy tours if that is preferable. The horse ride was fantastic and would work for beginners as it is only walking on trails. We had some beautiful lookouts over the ocean and got to see the sunset. They could only take 2 people on the ride, so if you have more people, some could do a buggy tour instead, at the same time. The farm is charming, with a miniature pony and goat as well. After the ride you will enjoy some light refreshments and wine before being driven back to town.
For more details, and to book go to www.kojankoral.com.
(Note: There are other horse riding facilities in the area that can host more people and allow for trotting and even swimming – message me if you would like more info.)
Day 3 - Korčula
We caught the 7am Jardrolinja ferry from Dubrovnik to Korčula. (Book tickets here www.jadrolinija.hr.) The journey took about 2 hours and we had arranged with our Airbnb host to store our luggage until checkin but we were fortunate that the apartment was available when we arrived.
Although Korčula Island is quite large, the old town of Korčula is very small and you can get around it very quickly. It is believed that Marco Polo was born and raised in the old town of Korčula and you can actually visit his house!
One of the coolest features of the town is the boardwalk of restaurants along the whole east side of the town, which is where we enjoyed some lunch before heading to the harbor on the west side for a swim. There are a couple of small beaches on the west harbor – one very close to town called Plaža Zakerjan, the other a 5 minute walk from the old town called Plaža Ispod Duvana.
At 4pm we went on a Korcula Buggy tour (www.korcula-buggy.com), which was half off-road and half on the road. We got to see a lot of the eastern end of the Island, including vineyards and villages and some great views. We were then able to drive the buggy down to one of the few sandy beaches on the island (Lumbarda) where we had free time for an hour to swim and get some drinks at the beach bar before jumping back in our buggy again.
In the evening we enjoyed a delicious traditional Croatian pasta dish (hand-rolled macaroni with slow-cooked beef) at the Konoba Mareta Steak House on Ul. Sv Roka – the central walkway through the town from the main gate – and then watched the sunset from the Massimo Cocktail bar which is situated on top of an old fortress tower where the drinks are brought up on a pulley! (FYI you must be able to climb a ladder one level inside the tower in order to get up to the top.)
Day 4 - Korčula
After breakfast we visited the tourist office and they arranged for us to rent some kayaks to go out into the archipelago of small islands along the eastern end of Korcula Island. They drove us to a resort a few miles from the town where we rented the kayaks (although there were also options to rent boats too, if that is your preference) and then paddled out of the bay to the Islands. We had the kayak for four hours and visited three islands, spending a good amount of time on Otok Badija island where we were able to buy lunch, drinks and feed the local deer! If you’re not into using your arms that much though, I’d definitely recommend getting a motor boat or even just taking a water taxi out to Otok Badija.
Day 5 - Split
We took the 6:00am ferry from Korčula to Split (and saw a few other Islands on the way). We arrived at 9:15am and, again, our Airbnb host was very helpful and took our bags for us early.
At 10:15am we went on a Game of Thrones tour (book here) that started with a shuttle bus ride to Klis Fortress (about 45 mins from town), an ancient mountaintop fort which was used to defend against invaders for hundreds of years, and where the GOT town of Mereen was filmed. The tour continued back in the old town of Split where we walked all around the town and learned about its fascinating history as well as the Game of Thrones filming locations around Diocletian’s Palace. Even if you’re not a GOT fan you would enjoy this 3.5 hour tour!
After a late lunch in the piazza we spent a couple of hours shopping (Zara, Guess etc.) on the west side of the old town along the wide street named Marmontova ul. (Much cheaper to buy these brands than in the USA!)
For dinner, we chose to walk up Senjska ul. to the top of the hill on the western end of town (from old town, head to the Riva on the water and turn right until you reach the church next to the parking lot, then keep the church on your left as you walk and just keep following that up the hill). We planned to eat at the Vidilica restaurant overlooking the city (per our tour guide’s recommendation), but when we got there we discovered it was closed due to COVID. We clicked a few pics of the amazing view up there first and then walked back down to a great café area we had passed on the way up around Spli’ska voda. Hopefully you will be able to dine on the top of the hill!
Day 6 - Split
This was our Krka Waterfalls tour day. We had wanted to do the tour that went through Sibenik on the way, but it wasn’t running that day so we did the standard tour (book here). We left at 8:15am on a bus and drove about 90 mins to the park. The tour guide was really great but you also have plenty of free time. You can walk the picturesque trail around the park in about 45-60 mins and it Is not difficult. You will end up at the bottom of the lower falls, which is where they used to allow people to swim but, unfortunately, stopped that only in 2021!
After enjoying the view of the falls, you can take the ferry boat down the river to the town of Skradin. We had lunch there (as the food was more expensive in the park) and then made our way to Skradin’s beach on the river. There are change rooms there and refreshments available, as well as deck chairs to rent. It was a lovely, peaceful place to relax in the sun for a couple of hours.
At 3pm we met our guide and the bus drove us 10 mins to a very small village where we enjoyed some wine tasting (optional part of the tour). It was so good that we bought two bottles to take home! We also learned how to say cheers in Croatian… živjeli (pronounced “ji vo li”)!
The bus dropped us back in Split at around 6pm and we had made reservations for an 8pm dinner at the Corto Maltese restaurant on Obrov ul. (one of the few that is often booked up) for some amazing seafood.
Day 7 - Split
Our final day in Split was one of the most fun days of the trip. If you don’t mind heights and enjoy a bit of adventure, the zip-line tour of Cetina Canyon from Omiš is definitely something to add to your itinerary! (Book here.) Their van picked us up from Split and we drove about 40 mins along the Riviera to Omiš. We then made our way into the hills and had the thrill of doing 8 ziplines (with the longest being 750m) all the way down the mountain. It was fantastic fun and the views were spectacular!
We chose to stay in the beautiful town of Omiš for the afternoon, enjoying a traditional Dalmatian seafood lunch and then swimming on the famous sandy beach (sandy beaches are rare in this part of the world!) for a couple of hours before Ubering back to Split.
As Croatian Airlines was only doing one flight per week to Dubrovnik from Split, we took that flight at 11:45pm Saturday evening. (Alternatively, you could take a ferry, bus or drive back to Dubrovnik.) Thankfully our Airbnb host allowed us pay for a half day so that we could go back and shower after the beach and have our final dinner in Split before checking out that evening!
Day 8 - Dubrovnik
After arriving in late the night before, we slept in and then went straight to the East Harbor to catch the ferry to Lokrum Island. It is only a 15 minute ride and in the summer it departs every 30 minutes.
Once on the island, we immediately made our way to the Monastery restaurant where we had a delicious lunch (maps are available inside the visitor center). We then saw the original throne from the Game of Thrones in the Monastery (and even sat on it) before making our way to the “Dead Sea”. The walk took us along a path near the ocean where people were swimming and sunning themselves. We saw people using the volleyball court and soccer field, others sitting on park benches having picnics, and lot of peacocks wandering around!
The Dead Sea is named after the original because of it’s high salt content. It is a small salt-water lake, of sorts, that is fed by and underground passage from the ocean. It is an idyllic spot to swim in, made even cooler by the Tiki bar right next to it!
After spending a while there, we followed the path around the top of cliffs above the Dead Sea to reach the ocean where many people were cliff jumping, swimming, and sunning themselves on the flat rocks. Several places even had ladders coming up from the ocean on to the rocks, so it was quite the place to hang out!
We caught the ferry back and had another delicious dinner in the town at Dalmatino on Prijeko ul (take the stairs up the hill from Stradun and the next “street” that runs parallel to Stradun is Prijeko ul).
Day 9 - Dubrovnik
After grabbing a nice breakfast at Gradska Kavana Arsenal we were picked up for our half day (4 hour) Jet Ski rental with Gari Transfer. You can ride the Jet Ski around Dubrovnik and Lokrum Island if you want, but we chose to go with their suggestions and head to the Elaphiti Islands (which was definitely a great decision!). The Jet Ski had a waterproof compartment for our phones and another storage compartment for our backpack, towels, watershoes, snorkels and the anchor. They gave us a map of the Islands with suggestions of where to go and we set off. (They also offer boat rentals or private boat tours if you don’t want to drive.)
First stop was the Blue Cave on Koločep Island. If not for all the other boats there, we probably wouldn’t have found it, but we were thankful we did because it was incredible! We swam under a small opening into a large cave where the water appeared iridescent blue from the light streaming in – and even more so underwater with goggles on!
We then went to the Šunj beach on Lopud Island which was another sandy beach but not very accessible so most people there had arrived by boat and swam into shore after anchoring. We tied our jet ski on to the buoys that roped off the beach and then swam in to shore as well (FYI – if you go to the far left end of the beach when facing it, you can almost walk all the way in to the shore from where you have to leave the jet ski, which helps if you are wanting to take your phone or towel with you!) They had deck chairs and umbrellas to rent, along with a café and bathrooms. This was the only beach on our trip that had any waves at all, although they were small!
While there we decided to try and find a famous seafood restaurant called BOWA on the next Island, which was only accessible by sea… and we found it! We were able to get a table in the restaurant, but if you want to enjoy a cabana (they have 5 private cabanas) you will definitely need a reservation! They even had boat valet parking! The menu changes daily based on what they catch and it is spectacular. We had Tuna Sashimi and Ceviche and it was so good we ordered a second round! We would have loved to stay longer but had to return our Jet Ski (at least a 30 minute ride from there). If you plan to go to this restaurant and really want to make the most of it, I definitely recommend an all-day Jet Ski or boat rental and a reservation at the restaurant!
After getting back and showering, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Dubravka 1836, which has lovely views over the West Harbor where we watched the sunset and then went back to Dalmatino for dessert because we had enjoyed it so much the previous night!
It was the perfect ending to the perfect vacation! Živjeli!
Great Places to Eat
There are many restaurants. Below are the ones I have eaten at and can recommend to you.
Dubrovnik
Restaurant Panorama (top of Cable Car on Mt Srd)
Dubravka 1836
Gradska Kavana
Dalmatino
Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota
Art Restaurant Renaissance
BOWA restaurant (on Šipan Island, accessible only by sea)
Rajski Vrt (on Lokrum Island)
Korcula
Konoba Mareta Steak House
Many restaurants on the waterside boardwalk
Massimo Cocktail Bar (for drinks with a view)
Split
Corto Maltese
BEPA
Pata Negra Wine & Tapas Bar (has full menu in a lovely courtyard)
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar
D16 Coffee (if you need good coffee in the morning)
Vidilica (with a view of old town from the top of the hill)
Great Places to Stay
There are many great apartment and B&B options. These are the ones I have personally stayed at and can recommend as great options.
Dubrovnik
Juliette’s Palace Studio
Dubrovnik Luxury Apartments
Korcula
Kanavelic Place
The Fabris – Luxury Inn
Split
Papalic Palace
Palazzo Comfort Apartments
Dubrovnik, Croatia
I have to admit, I didn’t really know what to expect of Croatia. I had seen pictures of Dubrovnik and, as a Game of Thrones fan, wanted to visit, but I definitely had some initial reservations, most of which were based in my memory of the War of Independence back in the 90s, where Croatia broke away from the oppressive rule of Yugoslavia.
We flew into Dubrovnik airport after a very short flight from Bari on the east coast of Italy (another spectacular place to visit!). We met with our prearranged transfer from the airport to downtown Dubrovnik and were informed that it would be a 25-30 minute drive to the Pile Gate, where he would be dropping us off to walk into the ancient walled city.
We asked our driver to tell us a little about Dubrovnik and he shared that tourism is actually the ONLY industry in Dubrovnik. Everything other form of business has long since disappeared from this town because of how many tourists come (it is one of the busiest tourist ports on the Mediterranean). He also added that it has been this way for many decades, long before Game of Thrones came on the scene! The only exception was during the Independence War, for obvious reasons, but they bounced back pretty quickly. While the ancient city was bombed during the war, there is no evidence left of that to be seen.
We also learned that this southern-most Croatian city, known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic”, is actually completely separated from the rest of the Croatia by a small strip of Bosnia!
We entered through the ancient Pile Gate in the northeastern corner of the Old Town of Dubrovnik (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and found ourselves walking down the Stradun – a long, beautiful, paved pedestrian street made of limestone which looks smooth like marble after years of people walking on it.
The street was lined with buildings made out of the same limestone, 3-4 stories high, with terracotta rooftops, and to our right was the Big Fountain of Onofrio (as opposed to the Small Fountain at the other end of town). It was breathtaking!
We found our way to our accommodation, which was only a couple of minutes walk, and our room looked out over the Stradun (details here). Once we were unpacked it was time for dinner, and, although it was getting quite late, there were a plethora of options within a stone’s throw of our door, so we were seated for a delicious meal within a few minutes.
This was our first experience eating Croatian food and we found that, while they have some dishes that are similar to Italian food (which we love!), it was surprisingly more flavorful. Over the next week, we would have the opportunity to try many different styles of Croatian food and found it all to have a very robust flavor.
Walking The City Walls
The next morning, in order to avoid the enormous crowds that fill the town each day from the cruise ships, we got up early to walk around the city walls. The ticket booth is located close to the Pile Gate next to the fountain. By 8 AM we were up on the walls to begin our journey.
The pedestrian traffic all moves in one direction (anti-clockwise), so we began heading towards the sea along the western wall. This gave us fantastic views of Kolorina Beach, West Dubrovnik Harbor and across to Fort Lovrijenac.
The southern wall sits on the edge of the Adriatic sea. About half way along it is a small cafe with some tables and a lofty view out over the water.
On the eastern side there are lovely views over the East Harbor marina and out towards Lokrum Island. You can also see along the south coast towards the small beach and cruise ships.
Along the northern side, further up the hill, there are several high points on the wall that provide panoramic vistas over the whole town, port, and out to sea. Simply stunning!
While the town appears to be relatively small, a walk around the walls can take 1-2 hours. Given that I was stopping regularly to take photos, it took us about 2 hours to do the full 1.2 mile circumnavigation, so we were well and truly ready for brunch by the time we finished!
West Harbor and Fort Lovijenac
Just outside the Pile Gate you will find the beautiful West Harbor, which appeared in Game of Thrones as Blackwater Bay . It is a gorgeous, small, sheltered harbor, with Bokar Fortress and the walls of Dubrovnik on one side and Fort Lovijenac on the other.
During the summer months you can rent kayaks on Kolorina Beach and paddle around the harbor and along the coastline.
If you continue walking around the edge of the West harbor you will soon come to the steps that lead up to Fort Lovijenac, which is a magnificent structure with great pillared halls and medieval terraces looking out over the West Harbor and Dubrovnik. This fortress was featured in the Game of Thrones series as the Red Keep.
Spanish Steps
Dubrovnik also has it’s own version of Spanish Steps, which are very similar (and modeled after) the ones in Rome, although smaller and not as busy! You will find them by St Ignatius’ Jesuit church, so they are also known as the Jesuit Stairs. Again, Game of Thrones fans will recognize these from the Walk of Shame scenes. At the foot of the stairs we found a vibrant street market and purchased a few mementos.
Lokrum Island
We decided to take the short ferry ride over to Lokrum Island for the afternoon, so we headed to the East Harbor marina to purchase our tickets and then had lunch at the Poliksar restaurant while waiting for the boat. Another delicious meal!
The 15 minute ride over to Lokrum Island cost 40 Kuna (about 5 Euro) each and provided us with a great view of Dubrovnik from the water.
On the way we learned some interesting facts about the island. For example, in 1192, Richard the Lionheart spent several months there after his fleet encountered a storm, during which time he paid the city of Dubrovnik to build the church of the Blessed Virgin, which is still standing on the island today!
Upon landing at Lokrum Island we purchased a map from the visitor center and made our way to a few of the sights. These included botanical gardens and the ruins of a medieval Benedictine Monastery, which also happened to be where the original Iron Throne from the “Game of Thrones” series is on display, having been donated to the city of Dubrovnik. You can even sit on it and take a picture!
We spent some time resting at one of the sheltered, rocky beaches on the west side, and then headed towards the famous blue lagoon while observing the many peacocks that freely roam the island.
The lagoon is actually named The Dead Sea, having a high salt content as a result of being fed by the sea and then evaporation occurring. The water is beautifully clear and blue, and, at 30 feet deep, it is the perfect swimming hole. (You can even cliff jump if you are the adventurous type!) Add to that the fact that there is an outdoor tiki bar right next to it, and you have a perfect little island paradise!
Sailing in a Karaka Replica Ship
A friend had told me about the opportunity to sail in a traditional Karaka replica (16th century sailing ship) out of the Dubrovnik harbor and I thought it sounded amazing so booked it for a sunset dinner sailing!
We boarded in the West Harbor at the same dock where we had boarded the Lokrum Island ferry earlier. The crew were dressed up in traditional costume and we were given a glass of champagne upon arrival, which we sipped on while standing on the top deck during the harbor exit.
We made our way out to sea, heading west, with amazing views of the city in the glow of the setting sun. We continued to sail towards the sunset until it fell below the horizon, and then we turned back, circling around Lokrum Island and anchoring for dinner.
The dinner was served buffet style and was quite modest, but tasty nonetheless. There was a dining room inside the ship, with booth-type seaing, and we were also able to order a drink from the bar. It was completely dark by this point and, after everyone had finished eating, they pulled up anchor and took us back into the harbor for disembarkment. It was definitely a highlight of the trip!
Game of Thrones Filming sites
For Game of Thrones fans, we identified a number of familiar places from the series. Dubrovnik itself was “King’s Landing” in the show and the following places around the Dubrovnik are featured: Pile Gate, Pile Harbor, Bokar Fortress, Minceta Tower, Fort Lovrijenac, Dominican Monastery, Sponza Palace, Spanish Steps, Ethnographic Museum and Ploce Gate.
Other Fun Things to Do
We had a few other things on our “to do” list, which I had researched, but we simply ran out of time. When we go back there (which we will!) we’ll definitely do these as well:
Visit Plaža Banje Beach – only a 5-10 minute walk from the Stradun through the Ploce gate. You will see wide stairs on your right (about 500 meters from the gate) heading down to the pebbly beach.
Kayak or Boat to Betina Cave Beach – this beach an only be reached from the sea and is inside a large natural cave. There are also stairs going up te side of the outer cave edge which lead to some great cliff jumping.
Take the Dubrovnik Cable Car to the top of Srd Hill – the hill overlooks the old town of Dubrovnik and out to the sea. On a clear day you can see 60 km! There is a restaurant at the top and you can also choose to do activities such as a buggy safari, hiking or visit the Homeland War Museum. A round trip costs about 100 kuna per adult.
Visit the Buza Bar – there are two Buza bar locations which are literally holes in the city wall that lead to the cliffs on the south side of the wall (one bar is smaller than the other). If you find your way to the street/alley named Petra Krešimira IV, you will see a sign with an arrow that says “cold drinks with the most beautiful view”. Simply follow the sign and you’ll find yourself in a small cliffside bar that serves only drinks and spectacular views out towards Lokrum Island and the sea.
Final Word
This first stop on our tour of the gorgeous Dalmatian Coast was just breathtaking. We had two full days there but could easily have stayed for five days. The city is beautiful, the food is amazing, the people are incredibly hospitable and the scenery is just magic. Definitely planning another trip back!
Capri Island
The Isle of Capri, located in the Bay of Naples just off the Sorrento headland, has been a desirable destination since the times of Ancient Rome. With its turquoise waters, high crags, majestic rock formations and hidden sea caves, the island is a natural playground.
While Capri was settled in the 8th century by Greek and Phoenician fishermen, it was the Roman Emperor Tiberias (who succeeded Emperor Caesar Augustus) that really put the island on the map around 30AD. He loved it so much that he had 12 palatial villas built for himself on the island, one of which was Villa Jovis, perched atop Monte Tiberio with spectacular views, now a popular place for tourists to visit.
Our introduction to Capri was on an all-day boat tour (www.bluestarpositano.it) from Positano. We meandered along the Amalfi Coastline towards Capri, while viewing the natural cave formations, cliffs rising from the sea and ancient forts built to defend against the Saracen pirates. Before long we had passed the tip of the Sorrento headland and were heading towards the “back” (south) side of the Island and the famous three “Faraglioni” (towering rock formations jutting out of the water).
One of the Faraglioni has a hole in the middle of it that boats can sail through, making it appear like an archway in the water. This has become an iconic symbol of Capri and our captain insisted that it is tradition for couples to kiss when under the arch.
We stopped in the calm waters on the south side and did some snorkeling. The water was incredibly clear and also very salty, which made it easy to float! As we continued clockwise around the Island towards Mount Solaro on the east end, the cliffs became even more impressive.
Grotta Azzurra
We had the opportunity to stop at the famous Grotta Azzurra (Blue Cave), where Emperor Tiberius used to swim, however the line was about one hour to get into the cave, so unfortunately everyone on the boat opted out. However, if you are interested in doing it, it costs 14 Euro per person and, once it is your turn to go in, you will transfer into a small wooden boat and bend down below the sides of the boat in order to pass through the cave opening.
The cave itself is a natural cavern that is about 60 feet deep, 180 feet long and 75 feet wide and has a small opening that the light passes through to give the water a beautiful blue appearance. Your boat captain will probably sing a song while you float in the serenity of the cave for about 5 minutes before heading back out. The best time to visit the cave is on a sunny day between about noon and 2pm.
The boat docked at the Marina on the north side of the island where we disembarked. The crew had provided us with a map of the island and a recommended itinerary to follow in order to see all the highlights. The following is our itinerary which was easy to complete in the four hours that we had there.
Marina Grande
After docking at Marina Grande, we continued walking along the waterfront area, which is lined with retailers offering food, souvenirs, fashion and beach items. We headed west until we reached the taxi/ferry/bus ticket booth (opposite Ristorante Da Peppino and the public restrooms).
Here you can either purchase tickets to ride the bus up to Anacapri or hail one of the “taxis” which are cars that appear to have been modified into convertibles, with shade cloth as a roof. (We’ve done both, having visited the island twice.) Alternatively, you can rent a moped for the day!
Anacapri
The ride to Anacapri is up a steep, winding, cliffside road with spectacular views over the Marina so, if you don’t like heights. you will want to be on the driver’s side of the vehicle!
Upon arriving in Anacapri at the top of the mountain, we took a short walk to Piazza Vittoria and decided to grab lunch. There were numerous options to choose from. We chose to sit outside in the piazza and ordered some Caprese salad (because you have to do that when on the island it is named after!) with bufala mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes, which I still maintain is the best Caprese salad I’ve ever had anywhere (and I’ve had a lot!).
Mt Solaro
In Piazza Vittoria, you will find the chairlift station to ride up to the top of Mount Solaro which is a must-do when in Capri! It is a single person chairlift and does get quite high off the ground, so if you’re afraid of heights you may want to just cover your eyes (as the only other way to get up there is quite a serious hike!). If you’re not afraid of heights though, have your phone/camera strapped on and ready because the views back down the mountain and out over the ocean are absolutely incredible!
At the top of Mt Solaro are the most magnificent views. We could see all the way across the Bay of Naples to Mt. Vesuvius, as well as down towards the Amalfi Coast… and then there are the sheer cliffs down to the ocean.
Then, after you’ve walked all around and taken a million photos, you can grab an ice cream and drink from the café and relax on the terrace at the top of the world.
Eventually you will have to tear yourself away from this heavenly location and head back down to where the plebs live. Of course, you’ll get to enjoy the views all over again on the way down… but this time, facing the right way. 😉
Once back in the Piazza, you can make your way to the bus stop and wait for the next bus heading down to Capri.
Capri
The small town of Capri sits on the escarpment above Marina Grande and is a lovely village full of fashion boutiques, artisan studios, souvenir shops, and a variety of good food options. Despite being quaint, it does still have an air of luxury about it that is reminiscent of a bygone era.
From it’s elevated position, Capri township boasts a lovely view out over the Marina, although it doesn’t come close to the spectacular views from Mt Solaro if you’ve just come from there!
There are a few places to visit, if you want to do more than just grab a gelato and admire the view. For one, there is the Charterhouse of San Giacomo, a 14th Century monastery that was expanded and restored in the 17th Century, with stunning architecture, a museum, a library and some pretty great views of the sea. This is just a 5 minute walk from the main piazza in Capri.
There is also the Museo Ignazio Cerio which showcases fossils, minerals, and archeological finds, which is very close to the Capri piazza, and the Botanical Gardens of Augustus, which are a 6 minute walk from the piazza and offer sweeping views of the sea while meandering through the gardens.
Funicular
The Funicular (tram) runs up and down the hill between Marina Grande and Capri and only costs 2 Euro for a one way ticket and it’s definitely a fun, easy way to get back down to the Marina.
Sailing home
Once back in the Marina, we made our way back to the dock to meet our captain for the journey back to Positano. We took a slightly different route on the way back, continuing around the Island before we headed back to the mainland.
We stopped at a sea cave on the way back which is dubbed “the green grotto” and had the opportunity to swim into there on our own while the boat was anchored. Then we were offered home-made Limoncello and shortbread on our final leg back to Positano, which was delicious!
Final Word
Both times we have been to Capri it has been a highlight of our trip. While the boat ride is a big part of it, especially seeing the grottos and faraglioni, I think the grandiose nature of the Island, with the spectacular views from Mt Solaro, is the reason I would keep going back for more. But then, if you have read any of my other posts, you will probably know that I am a sucker for a great view. 😉
Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast, nicknamed “The Divine Coast”, will absolutely take your breath away. With its steep inclines rising directly from the Mediterranean that are covered in narrow, winding roads, colorful, terraced homes and orchards that are perched on the hillside, you would be hard-pressed to find a more jaw-dropping location anywhere. Add to that its renowned cuisine and proximity to some really impressive natural wonders… and we have a winner!
Getting There
The nearest airport is Naples, which is about 90 minutes away by car, and Rome is around 5 hours away.
If you do not rent a car, there are some public transport options. Both Naples and Rome have train departures for the town of Salerno, which is just east of your final destination. Then, once in Salerno, there a few ways to complete the last part of your journey:
Take the 5120 SITA bus to Amalfi (departs about every 3 hours from the square outside the Salerno train station and takes about 1hr and 15 mins). If your destination is Positano, you can then either take the ferry or the bus.
If your accommodation is near the beach area in lower Positano, the ferry (a 30 minute trip which departs every three hours) could be a good option for you. However, be aware that, since you will be starting at sea level, anywhere you have to walk to will be uphill from where you disembark!
- Alternatively, you can change to the 5070 bus in Amalfi, which is a 40 minute ride to Positano and departs hourly. There are two stops in Positano – the first is La Sponda on the lower eastern part of town, where the SS163 (the main Amalfi Coast road) and Via Cristoforo Colombo meet. The second stop, Chiesa Nuova, is higher up the hill and on the west end, where the SS163 joins Viale Pasitea. After disembarking, you can either walk, take a taxi, or jump on one of the local buses to your final destination.
Another means of transport from Naples to Positano is to travel by ferry the whole way. To do this, you would first take a ferry from the Beverello Port (right next to Castel Nuovo) to the Island of Capri (approximately 45 minute journey). For the second leg, there are several companies operating ferry services to the Amalfi Coast and they all take approximately 40 minutes to get to Positano.
One other option for those who don’t want to rent a car is to arrange a private transfer or ride the “Positano Shuttle”, which departs from both Rome and Naples. Learn more at www.positanoshuttle.com.
All things considered, in order to have some flexibility and spend the least amount of time on the road, our preference was to rent a car and drive ourselves. As an added bonus, we stopped to visit the Pompeii archaeological site on the way (which was quite amazing!). However, if you do choose to rent a car, make sure it’s small! The roads around the Amalfi Coast are extremely narrow and it would be quite “hair-raising” trying to drive anything larger than a micro-sized car! We had a Fiat Panda and it still felt huge!
Where to Stay
There are roughly 25 small towns that make up the Amalfi Coast, but by far the most popular to visit is Positano, nicknamed “The Vertical City”, which also happens to be the first town you reach when arriving by car from Rome or Naples. Since we chose to stay in the Positano area and travel out from there for day trips, I will center this post around my experience there.
When it comes to Positano, it’s important to know that there is an upper town and a lower town and, although pretty much everywhere involves walking up stairs, if you stay in the upper town you will have a lot more stairs to climb from the beach area, unless you choose to ride the small public bus. That said, if you have a rental car, it may be easier to get parking for your vehicle in the upper town, away from the crowds and pedestrian-only areas.
In addition, if you are inclined to hike the “Path of the Gods” or do any rock climbing, the upper town will be much closer to those activities. Plus accommodation tends to get a little cheaper the further away from the beach you get!
With a simple search in www.booking.com you will find lots of boutique hotels – and many with views because of the terraced hills. There are also plenty of apartments and Bed & Breakfasts to choose from, however, because we are always drawn to spectacular views, we chose to go a little higher up into the hills on both of our visits.
Colle dell'Ara
The first time we chose a bed and breakfast called Colle dell’Ara (www.colledellara.it) which was in a fantastic location, high up on the hill above Positano, with parking closeby for our rental car. To get down into town we simply caught the bus, which had a stop very closeby. This place had phenomenal views out over the town and sea from its main terrace, where breakfast was served each morning.
Like many of the homes in the hills, Colle dell’Ara had an orchard and they made their own Limoncello, among other things! They also offered a magnificent home-cooked multi-course dinner for an additional fee, where we not only ate amazing food but also had the opportunity to meet other people.
One thing to note, as with many places in Positano, is that Colle dell’Ara is located about 300 steps from the main road, so you will need to be prepared to do a little walking! However, one of the unique things about this place is that they actually have an electric conveyor cable to transport your bags to & from the road, so at least you won’t have to carry those up the 300 steps! To be honest, it didn’t feel like that many steps and it wasn’t all uphill so it really wasn’t very difficult.
I have to mention something else that we found intriguing… the doorbell for the house is actually located in a rock face on the main road, seemingly in the middle of nowhere! We pressed this magic doorbell and someone answered and then showed up to load our bags onto the conveyor line within a few minutes! Presto!
Villa Casola
On our second visit, we had our young adult children with us, and we found a slightly cheaper option, but with even grander views, by going further out of town, all the way to the end of the upper road. Villa Casola B&B is located in Nocelle, about 5 miles out of Positano, right next to where the “Walk of the Gods” path begins. The views are to die for, and even my 18 year old daughter gasped when we arrived and started snapping pictures!
Fortunately there is a public parking lot in Nocelle, if you have a rental car, and the public bus line also ends at the parking lot, so it is easy to get to and from the Positano beach area… although I have to say that riding a bus (albeit a short one) down those very narrow, winding cliffside roads is quite an experience… especially when the driver religiously crosses himself at every turn!!
The hosts at Villa Casola were wonderful and we had a gorgeous breakfast out on the terrace in the mornings. They even made us some pre-dinner cocktails when we arrived home in the evening after a day out, before we walked down to get dinner at the local restaurant.
I should mention that there are over 100 stairs to walk up when going from the parking lot to the B&B. However, we arranged in advance for them to meet us with a “porter” to transport our bags for a modest fee so we didn’t have to lug those up the stairs with us! What I didn’t expect, though, was for the “porter” to be a mule! It really was quite impressive to watch, and we even saw a group of them transporting building materials to a building site on the hill. It makes sense when you realize there is no way to drive vehicles out on the hills, but it still feels like you have traveled back in time!
Where to Eat
Seafood is obviously going to be high on the menu in a seaside town like Positano and, if you’re anything like me, you can’t go wrong with real Italian food!
I searched on Trip Advisor for “best restaurants in Positano” and it gave me a great breakdown based on style (e.g. fine dining, casual) and price. We really liked the look of Da Vincenzo, so decided to pre-book it for dinner while we were there, since it is apparently in high demand. It was most definitely worth it and we had an absolutely delicious meal! Check them out at www.davincenzo.it.
We also ate at Blu Bar Positano, right on the edge of the beach under a lovely canopy of green vines and arbors. Great location and a very enjoyable meal.
Outside of the main town, we dined at La Tagliata, which has fantastic views from Monterpertuso and was only a short walk from our Colle dell’Ara B&B.
When staying at Villa Casola, we walked down a few flights of stairs to Santa Croce where we enjoyed a lovely meal with more of those breathtaking Nocelle views.
What to Do
Just hanging out in Positano is a treat, but there are some really great things to see and do, so I would be remiss if I didn’t share them.
Go to the beach
It depends on the time of year you are visiting of course, but it’s worth spending the 20 Euro to rent a deckchair on the sandy beach. A swim in the clear, salty Tyrrhenian Sea (part of the larger Mediterranean) is something you just have to experience!
Walk the “Path of the Gods”
This roughly four mile path, often dubbed the best hike in the world due to its spectacular views, runs between the villages of Nocelle to Bomerano. It will take a little more than two hours each way, so make sure you pack drinks and snacks! The path is a fantastic way to watch a sunrise or sunset too, and obviously you don’t have to do the entire hike to enjoy it! There is a great deal of serenity found in being out in the middle of nowhere while surrounded by the most magnificent scenery!
Take the ferry to Amalfi for a day trip
It only costs about 8 Euros and you’ll get to see more of the Amalfi Coast towns on the way. Amalfi itself is a gorgeous spot which you will find altogether charming!
Take a day trip to Capri Island
The Island of Capri has been a vacation destination for the rich and famous for centuries – even Roman Emperors had vacation homes there! We chose to go there in a little bit of style with www.bluestarpositano.it, and we couldn’t recommend them more highly! (In fact we have done the tour twice with them now, because we loved it so much!) The boats are luxurious with no more than 12 people aboard and they take you to see a few special sights along the way and allow you some free time to go swimming and snorkelling around the boat. They give you around 4 hours on Capri, which is plenty of time to see the main sights (you can read more about that in my Capri blog), and on your return journey, they give you shots of homemade Limoncello! This is truly one of our all-time highlights of any trip we’ve been on!
Shop in Positano village
.The pedestrian area of the town, which you have to walk through to get to the beach, is filled with boutique shops where you will find all things “lemon” (the people of Positano really do take lemons seriously – which works great for me, being a big fan of lemon myself!), colorful ceramics (lots of blue & yellow), designer clothing and gorgeous artwork.
Final Word
After visiting the Amalfi Coast, it is easy to see why so many people flock there each year. It truly is breathtaking in every sense of the word, and even the things we would normally consider to be inconvenient (such as walking 300 steps to our accommodation from the road!) take on a romantic charm in this magical place. Beauty, and the preservation of it, seems to take precedence over convenience here, and I found that to be very alluring.
Cinque Terre, Italy
I remember reading the “Famous Five” book series as a kid, but I now suspect that the real Famous Five might just be located on the Ligurian Sea in Italy… a.k.a. the Italian Riviera. These five are beautiful coastal villages that, together, make up the UNESCO World Heritage site known as “Cinque Terre”.
Cinque Terre literally means “Five Lands”, referring to the five small towns of (from north to south) Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Each of these hamlets feel a little different, but they are all beautifully situated on the water with steep inclines and surrounded by terraced vineyards and olive groves.
The villages feature ultra-colorful architecture, church steeples, ancient stone Forts and small harbors with old-school fishing boats (except in Corniglia, which sits too high up on the bluff to reach by sea).
Getting there
Of the five villages, only the towns of Monterosso al Mare, at the north end, and Riomaggiore, at the south end, can be accessed by car. In order to reach the other towns, you can travel by train, ferry (in summer only) or hike the spectacular trails along the cliffs.
Depending on which direction you are coming from and where you choose to stay, you can either park your car at the public parking lots in Monterosso al Mare or Riomaggiore, or your hotel/Airbnb may offer parking for an additional fee. We found that it was much cheaper to take up our Airbnb host’s offer for parking than it was to use the public lot.
Another option, if you are coming from the south, is to park in La Spezia at the train station, and then take the train from there to Cinque Terre.
More About Each of the Five Towns
Monterosso al Mare
Not only is Monterosso one of the two towns that you can drive to, it is also the only town in Cinque Terre that has a real beach (three beaches in fact!). In summer, you can even rent a deck chair and umbrella to relax on in between swims, which I definitely recommend since the beach is pebbly, not sandy (as is the case in much of Italy). If you have particularly sensitive feet you may even want to wear water shoes/slippers to avoid hobbling from your chair to the water and back!
The town of Monterosso has lots of lovely restaurants in the main village area. Our favorite was Ristorante Ciak (www.ristoranteciak.net), near the striped Church of San Giovanni Battista. We ordered the Baked Fish for our second course which was a whole Branzino cooked with potatoes and tomatoes, which the waiter brought to the table and fileted it right there to serve to us. It was absolutely delicious! There really is nothing like the taste of seafood that was caught that same day!
Another fabulous (and cheap) way to enjoy seafood in Cinque Terre is the the famous seafood cone “friggitorio” (fried seafood piled into a paper cone “to go”), which we enjoyed at Il Bocconcino on Monterosso beach just near the train station. Delicious!
We stayed in an Airbnb that was up the hill on the north side of Monterosso. It required a bit of a walk up the hill but it was definitely worth the effort to have the spectacular view out to the ocean!
Another thing we were able to see on the northside of town was the famous Statua del Gigante, which is the remains of an enormous statue of Neptune, God of the Sea, that was built over 100 years ago and presides over the beach.
Vernazza
Vernazza boasts a lovely little harbor just a few steps away from the main piazza which is surrounded by an abundance of colorful restaurants, shops and places to stay. It really is quite amazing how much you can find in such a small town!
There are some lovely short walks you can take that provide spectacular views over the ocean and back towards the town. We took the northern coast trail that wound past the Santa Margherita di Antiochia Church, which is the beginning of the trail back to Monterosso, and found some stunning vistas to snap pics of before walking back down into Vernazza.
When researching Cinque Terre in preparation for our visit, I was fortunate to have stumbled upon a blog that talked about Ristorante Belforte (www.ristorantebelforte.it), located in the remains of an ancient fort perched above the water in Vernazza. Determined to experience a seafood feast in these delightful surroundings, I booked several months ahead via email, requesting a table on the outer terrace. This turned out to be an absolute highlight of our visit and I couldn’t recommend it more highly!
Corniglia
Corniglia can be accessed by train or walking, but not by boat, since it sits up very high on the bluff. This, of course, means that it has spectacular views, and that it’s probably the quietest of the villages, being less accessible and right in the middle of Cinque Terre.
If you choose not to hike in, you should still be prepared for a decent uphill walk (380 stairs!) from the train station to get into Corniglia. The only alternative is to wait for the shuttle, although you are likely to be waiting a while before cramming in to drive up the winding road, so we chose the stairs.
Despite being a little quieter (and that is a relative term, because Cinque Terre is a very popular tourist destination), Corniglia still has plenty of bars, restaurants and shops to enjoy, along with quaint cobbled streets, church steeples and piazzas. Plus, if you choose to ride the train there and then to hike to a neighboring town, you will be starting from a highpoint so there will be a little less vertical rise on your hike than if you were going in the other direction!
Manarola
Manarola has a beautiful marina filled with fishing boats, and a main street that winds up the hill towards the medieval stone church of San Lorenzo, from which you will find a lovely view across the town towards the marina.
If you take the train to Manarola, you find the walk into town quite easy as there is a pedestrian tunnel that goes directly through the hill to the main street. If you are lucky you’ll hear some fabulous street busking while walking through the tunnel!
There are many restaurants and wine bars in the town (proudly featuring the locally produced Sciacchetrà wine, which is peculiar to Cinque Terre and is fabulous with cheese or dessert!). However, if you are looking for a great view with your meal, I would highly recommend Nessun Dorma, a restaurant featuring local cuisine with incredible vistas of the town & sea. To get there you would take the path from the marina to the Manarola Scenic Viewpoint (a short uphill walk that follows the coastline). Enjoy!
Riomaggiore
The most southern of the five villages, Riomaggiore is every bit as charming as the other four, with its colorful stone buildings stacked on the hill leading down to the small marina. It also has the remnants of a 12th century castle (Castillo di Riomaggiore) which boasts panoramic views from its terrace.
You can reach Riomaggiore by car (parking outside of the town and walking in) or by taking the Cinque Terre train line. It is a short, easy walk from the train station, through a pedestrian tunnel, into the center of the town.
The famous “Via dell’Amore” (Lover’s Lane) short hiking trail starts in Riomaggiore and follows the coastline to Manarola with spectacular views. As of the time of writing this, the trail is still closed for repairs after some major rockslides made it too dangerous to hike, however it is expected to reopen in 2022.
There is also a small pebbly beach on the south side of Riomaggiore for those who want a beach experience, and there are plenty of great restaurants and wine bars along the main street of Via Colombo.
Other Tips
The Sentiero Azura (Blue Trail) is the main trail that links the five villages, although unfortunately the southern part of the trail from Corniglia through Manarola to Riomaggiore is under repairs as of the time of writing. The section from Riomaggiore to Manarola is expected to reopen in 2021 and the Manarola to Corniglia “Via dell’Amore” portion is intended to be opened again in 2022.
The entire Sentiero Azura, an old mule trail, is a total of 12 kms long and boasts spectacular views. You will need some level of fitness to do the trail, given that each section takes around 2 hours, and you will need to take plenty of water if doing it during the summer months as it can get quite hot! (Note also that there is a fee to use the Blue Trail.)
The Cinque Terre card is a great option if you plan to use the train or hiking trails more than once. There are several options based on how many days you will use it, so it can definitely provide you with some savings as well as convenience.
There are also many different options to get out on the water in a self-guided tour or with a skipper. Angelo’s Boat Tours (www.angelosboattours.com), based in Monterosso, has some fabulous tours available, including one at sunset! Or you can rent a boat and choose your own adventure from places such as from Cinque Terre travel, based in Vernazza (www.cinqueterre-travel.com/tours). Many different types of boats are available, from simple gozzo motorboats to fancy yachts, depending on your budget and preference.
Final Word
Our experience at Cinque Terre, in mid-summer, was dreamy and we loved every minute of it, despite it being quite hot. We chose not to hike because of the heat, and made the most of the train and ferries, so it was very relaxed and we got some fantastic views of each town from the water! Cinque Terre is a very unique and tranquil place and definitely one you should add to your bucket list!
Bellagio - Lake Como
The idyllic town of Bellagio, combined with the picturesque beauty of Lake Como, is truly “a dream within a dream” (to borrow a phrase from the classic “Princess Bride”).
We have driven around the entire shoreline of the lake and stopped in many towns, but our favorite place to stay is Bellagio. Yes, it is a popular spot for tourists, but you just can’t beat its location right in the center of the lake, where everything else is so accessible. Plus, I really think it is the prettiest of all the villages. The waterfront area is simply divine, and most days, late in the afternoon, you would find us there under the shade of the wisteria trees, with a glass of Prosecco in hand while we decided where to eat dinner that night.
The old part of Bellagio is pedestrian only, so if you drive there, you will need to find parking on the edge of town and then walk in (unless you stay at one of the more expensive hotels with parking). Fortunately, the accommodation we stayed in each time included a parking spot, with just a short walk to the apartment from there.
We have stayed in the same apartment three times now, because of its fantastic location on Salita Serbelloni – the first staircase “street” you come to when entering Bellagio. The apartment is right above the shops which makes the balcony a perfect spot for people-watching! The bathroom is very small (not unusual for Italy) but the bed was comfy and living area/kitchen had all we needed. Here is a link to the 1-bedroom apartment we stayed in (www.booking.com/Share-Dvhrgn) and they also have a 2-bedroom on the same street. The owner, Georgio, is a lovely older man who has been a real estate agent in the area for a long time and has an office just a few doors up. He does not speak much English so his son, Roberto, handles all of the correspondence and is very responsive.
I love exploring the labyrinth of staircases, streets and alleys that make up Bellagio. While there is some great shopping to be found, my favorite finds are the “hidden” restaurants and wine bars! Some of them are built into the side of the hill, so that it’s like a cave inside; others are on the level above the “street”, with beautiful arbors covering an outdoor terrazza; and still others spill out onto the cobblestones, with their tables hugging the restaurant’s outer walls for an authentic al fresco dining experience.
Alternatively, if you want a bit of a view when you’re dining, there are some hotels in Bellagio with water views, but our favorite was a short walk out of the town to the beautiful Hotel Belvedere. http://www.belvederebellagio.com/en/la-terrazza-restaurant Their location on the top of the hill offers views in a different direction to what you’ll see from the village, and the combination of their 5-star service, stunning vistas and some of the best seafood we have ever eaten (I have never had calamari that tender!), made it one of the most memorable meals ever!
Getting There
If you are comfortable driving on the right side of the road, renting a car is a great way to go, especially if visiting other towns around the lake is on your itinerary. There are many different route options from MXP to get to Bellagio, which are all between roughly 1hr 30 mins and 1hr 50 mins (Milan Linate airport is even shorter), so taking different routes each way will enable you to see more of the area. If you choose to go up the west side of the lake to get there, you will take the car ferry from Cadenabbia directly to Bellagio.
One thing to keep in mind when renting a car is that the roads are very narrow and parking spaces very small, so you will want to think like an Italian when choosing the vehicle size! We made the rookie mistake of choosing an Audi Q2 (small SUV) our first time and it made things quite difficult.
I also recommend that you arrange parking for your vehicle while in Bellagio ahead of time, as the public parking lots can get quite full. The owner of our B&B had a small garage for us to use on the edge of town the first year but the second year it wasn’t available so, instead, he parked his own car in a space in the free public parking lot to save the space for us until we arrived which was super helpful!
If you don’t rent a car, Bellagio is still relatively easy to get to by public transport. If you are coming from the airport, take the train to Milan Central and then transfer to a train going to Varenna. Once in Varenna, you can take the ferry directly to Bellagio.
Alternatively, if you want a private transfer, the cheapest option I found is at https://airportstaxitransfers.com where a one way trip from MXP to Bellagio for up to 3 passengers is 115 Euro.
Things to Do & See
Bellagio easy ferry access to both sides of the lake. The car ferry goes to Varenna and Cadenabbia while passenger ferries offer many more options, and for those wanting personal service, you can always take a water taxi (http://barindellitaxiboats.it). In this blog I focus more on the things to do around Bellagio, however, for a more comprehensive list of places to go and things to do around the lake, please check out my Lake Como blog.
Rent a Scooter
Bellagio has a car rental agency in town (www.barindellitaxi.it/services/rent-car-scooter), and they also have Vespa/scooter rentals for those who are feeling a little more adventurous. We rented one and took a ride up the SP41 road into the mountains just behind Bellagio and found some spectacular views at Bellavista Park in Civenna! We also rode along the SP583 on the waterfront towards Onno and found some lovely quiet beaches.
Take a Day Trip to Lugano, Switzerland
If you choose to rent a car you could also take a day trip over to Switzerland. Lugano is only just over an hour away (via Menaggio) and Lake Lugano is another masterpiece of nature. (In truth, while it is Switzerland, it didn’t feel all that Swiss because they speak Italian!) We chose to take the Cassarate/tram (www.montebre.ch/eng) from downtown Lugano, up the side of Mount Bre and ate at the restaurant at the top with some glorious views. We took a different route home, crossing over the south end of the lake at Melide and stopped at a fantastic outlet mall (with lots of designer brands!) in Mendrisio called FoxTown Factory Stores. Definitely worth the stop!
Rent a Boat and Choose Your Own Lake Adventure
Back in Bellagio, at the end of the long lakefront promenade, just in front of Lido di Bellagio, you will find Bellagio Rent a Boat (www.bellagiorentaboat.com), where you can rent a speedboat and choose your own adventure on the lake. They do not require boat licenses and the boats have plenty of power to get around. You can take up to 6 people with you to see some of the gorgeous villas from the water and then, if you go around the other side of Bellagio towards Limonta, you will most likely find some beautifully calm water in the middle of the lake (with very few other boats) where you can “park” the boat and go swimming.
Of course, there are plenty of other more rigorous things to do, such as hiking, cycling or kayaking (www.bellagiowatersports.com), if you prefer to be more active. Alternatively, can find a tour to go on, such as wine tasting, cooking classes, visiting one of the famous villas, or hop aboard the Bellagio tourist train for a short 30 minute tour! But regardless of how you spend your day, the joy of staying in Bellagio is being able to come back to this gorgeous town for late afternoon drinks under the trees by the water (Bar Sanremo or Bar Splendide), then a short “riposo” (Italy’s “siesta”) followed by an unforgettable dinner.
Saluti!
Lake Como, Italy
Of all the places we have traveled to, Lake Como (or Lago di Como) could well be our favorite. So much so, that we have planned a number of our travel itineraries around spending a few days there to unwind on our way to somewhere else. It really is hard to beat the combination of its stunning natural beauty, quaint hillside vlllages, opulent villas, and Italian hospitality.
About Lake Como
Thanks to celebrities like George Clooney, the Lake area has become one of the most visited places in Italy. Perhaps because of this, the area is extremely well provisioned to cater for the many people it will host and is also very well maintained. That said, the vastness of the lake and surrounding mountains overcomes any sense of being crowded and it continues to maintain its old world charm with a labyrinth of fairytale villages, church steeples, and narrow cobbled streets.
The Italian and Swiss Alps provide a stunning backdrop for this beautiful, inverted-Y shaped glacial lake, which is situated about an hour north of Milan. Lake Como is the 5th deepest lake in Europe – with the top four all being located in Norway – and it has over 100 miles of shoreline! If you count all the towns around the shore on a map you’ll find over 60 of them, so, for first time visitors, the decision of where to stay can be somewhat overwhelming!
Where to Stay
The most accessible towns on the lake, considering ferry schedules, would be:
South end of the lake: (about 1 hour by car from Milan Malpensa (MXP) airport)
Como (the largest town)
Cernobbio
Lecco
Center of the lake (about 1 hour and 30 minutes by car from MXP)
Bellagio (our personal favorite – read Bellagio blog to find out more!)
Varenna
Menaggio
Tremezzo
Cadenabbia
Lenno
Argegno
Once you have chosen your town, you will need to decide whether you want to be in the village or on the hillside overlooking the village. There are many places with views but you will then need to be prepared to travel down into the town. We decided to stay in town and just visit the hilltops and views during our daily outings.
Airbnb has many options but my favorite accommodation site for Lake Como has been Booking.com. I especially like it when I can filter by “free cancellation” and “no prepayment” and then book 2 or 3 different options for the same dates at least 6 months in advance. Then I make my final decision at a month or two out (be sure to set yourself a reminder for when the free cancellation date ends on a property!) and cancel the others. It means I get the best prices that far out, but have time to research it a bit more before I make my final decision!
Top 10 Things to See & Do
There are so many things to see and do around Lake Como that I will not even attempt to list them all. Some of them are obvious, while others are a little more off the beaten track, but here are ten of our favorite experiences…
1. Take a private lake tour on a Venetian taxi boat
While there are regular taxi boats you can ride in, taking a Venetian water taxi (a.k.a. limousine boat) is high on my list of must-do’s! While it is a luxury activity, it is most certainly one that you won’t regret! There are Venetian water taxis available in various places on the lake, including Bellagio (www.barindellitaxiboats.it) and Varenna (www.varennataxiboat.com).
We chose to ride with Giacomo (www.boat-tour.it) and his beautiful Venetian water taxi “Alba”, departing from the town of Como. We did a lovely two hour private tour where Giacomo showed us many of the beautiful villas on the lake between Como and Bellagio (including George Clooney’s and Richard Branson’s). He also took us under the enchanting little bridge in the town of Nesso to see the waterfall, which was magic! Giacomo was a fantastic host and tour guide, and even provided us with a bottle of champagne to enjoy while onboard, which made it even more special.
2. Ride the Como tram (funicular) up the mountain to Brunate for dinner with a view
This was actually the recommendation of Giacomo, our water taxi tour guide, and he even called the restaurant in Brunate to book us in for a sunset dinner last minute! So we went directly to the tram, which is right on the Como waterfront near the docks, from the taxi boat. (https://www.atm.it/en/AltriServizi/Trasporto/Pages/FunicolareComoBrunate.aspx)
The tram ride is quite thrilling as it goes up the side of a very steep mountain and the views of Como and the lake grow more and more spectacular as you go. At the top you will find a very small village called Brunate, and if you walk up the hill a little you will find some boutique hotels and restaurants with the most incredible views over the mountains. If you go for dinner you can literally watch the sunset over Switzerland while you dine! We went to the Bellavista and sat on the Terrace for dinner (https://www.bellavistabrunate.com/it/giardino/). We were so glad we took Giacomo’s advice!
3. Rent a power boat and create your own adventure on the lake
Many of the towns on the lake have boat rentals available. We rented ours from Bellagio Rent a Boat (www.bellagiorentaboat.com) which is a short walk along the promenade from the village. They did not require boat licenses and the boats had plenty of power to get us around. You can take up to 6 people with you to see some of the gorgeous villas from the water and then, if you go around the other side of Bellagio towards Limonta, you will most likely find some beautifully calm water in the middle of the lake (with very few other boats) where you can “park” the boat and go swimming.
4. Take the cable car from Argegno up to Pigra
Argegno is a lovely town that lies about half way down the southwestern branch of the lake. 650 meters above it, perched atop the mountain, is the commune of Pigra and, if you are not afraid of heights, you should definitely ride the cable car from Argegno to Pigra for the spectacular views as well as the thrill of the ride! (www.aapigra.it/aap/funivia) There are a few restaurants at the top and several hikes of varying distances that you can do (from 20 minutes to several hours). We took a short hike and picnicked before taking in the views again on the return journey down the mountain… and loved every second of it!
5. Visit Villa del Balbianello (the most famous Villa on the lake!)
Villa del Balbianello sits on the edge of a wooded peninsula in Tremezzina near Lenno. The Villa was built in 1787 for a powerful cardinal and has had some notable and interesting owners, with the most recent being a famous Italian explorer, Guido Monzino, who led an expedition to Mt Everest in the 70s. The villa is now more famous for appearing in a few movies, including Casino Royale and Star Wars Episode II, but it’s really the enchanting terraced gardens with splendid views across the lake that make it worth the visit.
You can get there by taxi boat from Lenno or you can make the 1km walk from the parking area located at Via degli Artigiani 9, Lenno. If you are driving I recommend getting there early as there is very little parking available. (Also note that they are closed on Mondays & Wednesdays – www.fondoambiente.it/villa-del-balbianello-eng.) Once you arrive at the Villa there is a fee to enter, with an additional fee to go inside the villa on a guided tour. We spent a couple of hours just wandering around the elaborate gardens, admiring the beautifully pruned trees, majestic oaks, grassy terraces and ornate buildings… and we savored every second! It was definitely worth the visit!
6. Rent a Vespa and ride up into the hills
For those who are feeling a little more adventurous, Bellagio has a Vespa/scooter rental agency (www.barindellitaxi.it/services/rent-car-scooter). You can rent one by the hour, half day or full day. We chose to both ride on the one scooter and rode up the SP41 road into the mountains just behind Bellagio where we found some spectacular views at Bellavista Park in Civenna! We also rode along the SP583 on the waterfront towards Onno and found some lovely quiet beaches to picnic on.
7. Hike from Varenna up to Castello di Vezio (or take a taxi up there if you’re not into hiking!)
Vezio Castle (www.castellodivezio.it) sits high on the ridge above the town of Varenna. It has been there for some 1000 years and was built as a strategic military settlement by the medieval Queen Teodolinda of Lombardy. The location was clearly chosen because of its strategic location in the center of the lake with a panoramic view. Given that we love good views and places with a lot of history, we decided we needed to visit! We chose the “peasants” way to get there (in 98 degree heat!), which was a hike directly uphill from the ferry dock (the path starts just behind the restaurants at the dock). Be prepared for some serious leg work if you take this route, although it only took about 25 mins. Alternatively you can go to the cemetery behind Villa Monastero and take a 30 minute walk up the Sentiero del Viandante. Or if you’re not into hiking, I found out later that you can actually take a taxi from the ferry dock!
The castle itself had a watchtower, drawbridge and walls around it, which we were able to walk around. In the grounds around the castle, besides the usual refreshment cafe and souvenir shop, there were a few interesting and unusual things… 1) a number of birds of prey that were part of the falconry show, 2) a Lariosaurus (prehistoric marine reptile) exhibition and, 3) “Ghost” statues in the garden! For us, the hike was definitely worth it… but I have to admit that we called a taxi to get back down the hill!
8. Take a day trip to Lugano, Switzerland
If you have a car, or you rent one for the day from a local rental agency (e.g. Barindelli’s in Bellagio), you can easily take a day trip over to Switzerland. Lugano is only just over an hour away from Bellagio (via Menaggio) and Lake Lugano is another masterpiece of nature. (In truth, while it is Switzerland, it didn’t feel all that Swiss because they speak Italian!) We chose to take the Cassarate/tram (www.montebre.ch/eng) from downtown Lugano, up the side of Mount Bre and then ate at the restaurant at the top with some glorious views before visiting the town which has some iconic locations such as the historic Grand Cafe al Porto (a secret meeting place in WWII).
We took a different route home, crossing over the south end of the lake at Melide and stopped at a fantastic outlet mall (with lots of designer brands!) in Mendrisio called FoxTown Factory Stores. Definitely worth the stop!
9. Ride the hydrofoil ferry
The hydrofoil is an experience just because of the way it comes up out of the water once it is planing. But the ferry also provides a quick means of transport around the lake, and it goes to most towns between Como and Colico, except for those on the southeastern branch. You can find the ferry schedule at https://www.navigazionelaghi.it/ and if you don’t want to stop at every single town on the way to your destination, I definitely recommend clicking the “Include Quick Service” checkbox before searching!
10. Dine at La Terrazza restaurant in Hotel Belvedere, Bellagio
Hotel Belvedere is in a prime location on the top of the hill just outside of the village of Bellagio. It took us about 10 minutes to walk there from our apartment on Via Serbelloni and it was well worth it! The hotel restaurant, La Terrazza, (www.belvederebellagio.com/en/la-terrazza-restaurant) offers stunning views across the south-eastern arm of the lake, which is in the opposite direction to what you’ll see from the Bellagio village and waterfront.
That said, despite our love of a good view, it really wasn’t the view that made us go back there a second time only two days later!… It was the food! Honestly one of the most memorable meals ever. The seafood was some of the best I have ever had, and I’ve been a lot of places that are known for good seafood! I highly recommend the calamari/octopus, Branzino and Lavarello. So, while I don’t often gush about restaurants, the combination of their 5-star service, stunning vistas and incredible seafood (I have never had calamari that tender!), made it a definite top 10 experience for us!
So there you have our top 10 experiences while staying in the Lake Como area. I hope you love it as much as we do! For more detail on Bellagio (our favorite place to stay), visit my Bellagio blog post.
My Story
I guess you could say I have the travel bug in my blood!
My “Kiwi” (slang for New Zealander) parents were text-book hippy wanderers and, in the early 70s, managed to drive a VW Kombi Van from London, through France and Spain, and then down the entire African continent… all while I was in utero.
Needless to say, their many travel adventures could easily have been written into a New York Times “bestseller”!
After spending the first two years of my life in Cape Town, South Africa, my parents decided to return to their homeland and family, so we took a three month ship voyage, via Australia, to New Zealand. There, I spent the next 13 years in a small beach community without so much as venturing off the Island!
But then, at age 15, my parents made a huge decision and decided to move all of us to Perth, Western Australia… and thus began my experience of the wider world!
I finished school in Perth and then moved to Sydney on the East Coast for work. It was there that I met my now-husband and in our first few years we lived between Perth and Sydney.
In 1995 we did our first trip overseas (for six weeks!) on a round-the-world ticket and did some road tripping about the USA and the UK. I guess that’s when I really discovered my love for travel. Mind you… this was all before the internet, so planning a road trip back then involved lots of paper maps and guide books!
We loved it so much that we did a 4-week trip again the following year. This trip solidified our desire to live abroad, so 3 years later, after our 2nd baby was born, we moved to Northern California when a job opportunity came up, and after 2 years there, we decided we wanted to stay in the US permanently.
We had identified Seattle as our ideal home, after several visits there, due to it having so many gorgeous lakes, mountains and trees, plus a very ‘hip’ culture with incredible food! However, to move there would require new visas, so we made the trek back to Australia and lived in Sydney again for 2.5 years before traversing back over the Pacific to land in Seattle at the beginning of 2004.
Our first 15 years in the US involved a number of different job opportunities, which meant several moves up and down the West Coast. After 4.5 years in super-cool Seattle we moved to the cosmopolitan (and very expensive) city of San Francisco.
After 2.5 years there we finally received our green cards and were able to live and work wherever we wanted! So, we returned to the beautiful Pacific Northwest in 2010 (we had really missed the trees and mountains!), but this time we landed in the southern part of Washington state, just north of Portland, Oregon, in a town called Vancouver (not to be confused with Vancouver, Canada!).
We chose Vancouver because of its proximity to all of our favorite things – 90 mins to ski resorts, 20 mins to downtown Portland (world-renowned for it’s great food, beer and coffee!) and 15 minutes to stunning waterways for boating – as well as its affordability.
Plus Washington State has no State income tax and Oregon has no sales tax, so we got the best of both worlds when we shopped in Portland!
It was during our time in Vancouver that we started to dream about traveling again, now that the kids were teenagers and pretty independent. I decided I wanted to do a trip to Italy for our 20th anniversary, having consumed so many books and TV shows about ancient Rome. My husband really just wanted to go on a vacation without the kids (after many years of our vacation time being used up visiting family in Australia), so he didn’t take much convincing!
Our first trip was (only) 12 days and we squeezed in Rome, the Amalfi Coast, Capri, Tuscany, Venice, the Dolomites and Lake Garda with a fun road trip. We learned a lot along the way (such as how to navigate Italian highway toll booths (the first time was terrifying!), keeping right on the freeway (or you’ll have a crazy Italian driver honking at you from behind) and why its essential to have a small car when driving in Italy! But oh what a blast we had!
That first trip to Italy really whet our appetite for travel, and we decide that we were going to go somewhere every year – primarily in Europe, since we had added so many places to our bucket list after that first trip to Italy! What ensued over the following 5 years was somewhat of an obsession with planning our next vacation (yes, I am one of those weird people that loves to plan things). I would literally be thinking about ideal itineraries and planning them out before we had even departed on the current trip!
Needless to say, we have now done a number of EPIC vacations, usually somewhere between 2 and 3 weeks in length, and mostly involving a least a bit of a road trip (or a ferry trip if you’re in Croatia).
While I feel I still have so much to learn, I am becoming very well versed how to put together a great itinerary (including programming in enough chill time for the hubby, because I tend to want to go, go, go, while he really wants some time out!), and have acquired some great travel hacks.
I have also developed a new love for photography and taking a little extra time to capture the perfect shot – thank goodness for the ever-improving technology of our phones that means we don’t have to lug a big camera bag all over the world anymore!
In 2020 we moved to LA to be closer to our adult kids, which was a huge change from the Pacific Northwest, but we are discovering the beauty of southern California and relishing in being close to LAX airport – making overseas travel that much cheaper! We had to cancel 2 vacations to Europe and one to Australia, thanks to COVID-19, but that just gave us more time to plan our next trip!
So that’s a little about me and my journey to becoming a lover of travel. I hope my blog gives you the inspiration you need to get started, as well as lots of practical tips and itinerary ideas for designing your next Divine Vacay.
Cheers,
Bree
“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page.”- St Augustine
